Chianalea di Scilla is one of Italy's most photogenic fishing quarters – a labyrinth of narrow lanes, stone houses built almost directly over the water, and sea that pushes between rocks and buildings, creating a landscape reminiscent of a miniature Venice. It is the oldest quarter of Scilla, and Scilla itself belongs to the I Borghi più Belli d'Italia (The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy) network. Chianalea has preserved the authentic character of a fishing settlement where the rhythm of daily life is set by the catch, and restaurants serve whatever was landed that morning.
The quarter sits at the foot of Castello Ruffo, directly above the waters of the Strait of Messina. It is the oldest part of Scilla and a place that captivates everyone who reaches it – especially at sunset, when golden light bounces off the sea and Sicily's silhouette appears on the horizon.
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History and architecture – houses on the sea
The exact origin of the name Chianalea is not entirely certain, with various local interpretations linking it to the seaside character of this part of Scilla. Regardless of etymology, what makes the quarter unique is its buildings set directly above the sea, on rocks, small inlets and steps leading down to the water, where fishermen have moored their boats for centuries. This characteristic earned Chianalea the nickname "Little Venice of the South" (Piccola Venezia del Sud).
The houses of Chianalea do not merely stand beside the sea – many of them rise almost from the very rock washed by waves. Some restaurants operate on wooden platforms raised above the water on stilts, accessible both from land and by boat. This unique architecture arose from necessity – the narrow strip of rocky coastline left no room for conventional building, so fishermen built where they could: on rocks, right by the water and under the castle's protection.
The castle above has been associated with the Ruffo family, who controlled Scilla and a strategic stretch of the Strait of Messina. The castle served a defensive and supervisory function, while the fishing quarter developed below it as a port and residential area for a community living from the sea.
The most notable architectural landmarks in Chianalea include:
- Ruffo Fountain (16th century) – bearing the coat of arms of the Ruffo family, founders of the castle
- Fountain of Three Channels (1610) – decorated with masks and friezes, once a main source of drinking water for fishermen
- Canalello Fountain (St. Clement's Fountain) – another historic water point
- Church of Santa Maria di Porto Salvo – patron saint of fishermen and sailors
- Church of San Giuseppe – a small church woven into the fishing quarter's fabric
- Villa Zagari (1933) – an eclectic building of historical and architectural value, honouring the scholar Giuseppe Zagari (1863–1946)
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Life in Chianalea – fishermen, cuisine, and sunsets
Chianalea is no open-air museum – it is a living quarter where fishing families still carry on a multigenerational tradition. In the morning, boats are hauled up at small water accesses between buildings while fishermen mend their nets. The main product of local catches is swordfish (pesce spada), hunted using traditional methods in the Strait of Messina from May to September – read more in our article on the swordfish fishing tradition.
Traditional swordfish fishing in Scilla is associated with the characteristic feluccas – long boats equipped with a tall observation mast from which fish are spotted in the clear waters of the strait. It is one of the most recognisable symbols of the town and an important element of local identity.
The restaurants of Chianalea are an attraction in their own right. Several operate literally over the water – you sit on a terrace on stilts, the sea lapping beneath your feet, while grilled swordfish, carpaccio, or spaghetti alla scillese lands on your plate. In local stories and legends, swordfish holds a special place, which is why it has also become the culinary symbol of this town. Discover more about Calabrian cuisine in our guide.
In the evening Chianalea transforms into one of the most romantic spots on the Calabrian coast. The sunset over the Strait, with Sicily's silhouette on the horizon and warm light reflecting off stone facades, is a sight that stays with you long after you leave. The best vantage point is the waterfront at the end of the main lane, where you can see the village, the castle, and the open sea all at once.
Practical information
Location: Historic quarter of Scilla, at the foot of Castello Ruffo, on the Strait of Messina
Access: On foot from Marina Grande or from Scilla centre, heading towards the historic quarter below the castle
From the station: Walking from Scilla railway station to Chianalea takes roughly 15–20 minutes
Parking: It is easiest to park before the entrance to the historic part of Scilla; car traffic in Chianalea itself is very restricted or impossible
Swimming and beaches: Chianalea is primarily for strolling, dining and admiring the views; the most convenient beach is at Marina Grande
Best time to visit: Afternoon hours are ideal, especially for sunset; in summer the quarter is busier, while off-season it is quieter and more authentic, though some restaurants may have reduced hours
Tip: The lanes are very narrow and sometimes steep – comfortable shoes are a must
Getting there: From Reggio Calabria about 30 min by car (25 km); train to Scilla station
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Chianalea called the "Little Venice of the South"?
The nickname comes from the buildings standing right above the water, on rocks, small inlets and steps leading to the sea. Boats moor directly beside houses and water pushes between the buildings, creating a unique landscape reminiscent of Venice.
Is Chianalea listed on any official register?
Scilla belongs to the prestigious I Borghi più Belli d'Italia network (The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy), and Chianalea is its oldest and most characteristic quarter.
What dish should you try in Chianalea?
Swordfish (pesce spada) in every form – grilled, as carpaccio, in pasta sauce, or as involtini (stuffed rolls). It is the icon of local cuisine, caught using traditional methods in the Strait of Messina.
What is the best time of day to visit Chianalea?
It is most beautiful in the afternoon and at sunset, when golden light reflects off the stone facades and sea. In the morning you will see the fishing life – boats, nets, and the fresh catch. Off-season the quarter is quieter, though some restaurants may have reduced hours.