Castello Ruffo

Castello Ruffo di Scilla is a mighty fortress built on a rocky promontory above the Strait of Messina – on the rock traditionally identified as the home of the mythical Scylla from the Odyssey. This defensive site has a history stretching back over 2,500 years, though the present form of the castle is the result of much later rebuilds. It is the most important monument in Scilla – for its history and its views. The Sicilian coast is visible almost always, and when the air is very clear you can also make out part of the Aeolian Islands, especially Stromboli.

History of the fortress – from Anaxilas to the Ruffo dynasty

The first fortification on Scilla's rock was erected in the 5th century BC by order of Anaxilas, tyrant of Rhegion (today's Reggio Calabria), as a defence against pirates raiding the Strait of Messina. In 390 BC the fortress was seized by Dionysius I (the Elder) of Syracuse, and during the Roman period the site retained its importance as a key control point for the crossing between Calabria and Sicily.

In 1060 the castle surrendered to Robert Guiscard, the Norman conqueror, who turned it into a military garrison. Over the following centuries the fortress changed hands repeatedly, until in 1469 King Ferdinand I of Naples granted it to the Castilian knight Gutierre De Nava, who enlarged it. In 1533 Gutierre De Nava sold the fief for 30,000 ducats to his brother-in-law Paolo Ruffo, Count of Sinopoli, and the Ruffo di Sinopoli held Scilla until the abolition of feudalism in 1806. It is this family that gave the castle its present name and is associated with an important phase of rebuilding: the site was enlarged and adapted to serve as a residence.

Two catastrophic earthquakes – in 1783 and 1908 – severely damaged the castle. The site was subsequently rebuilt and transformed, and in 1913 the uppermost part of the castle was closed off to house a lighthouse, which still operates today, continuing the age-old watchful role of this location.

Crucial to the fortress's present appearance, however, was the early 19th century. In 1808, during Joachim Murat's reign in the Kingdom of Naples, the castle was heavily fortified as part of the defence system of the Strait of Messina against the British and Bourbons in Sicily. In the Napoleonic era the castle retained its military importance; in 1808 it became state property, and around 1810 its restoration and adaptation to the defensive needs of the strait were completed.

Mythology – Scylla and Charybdis from Homer's Odyssey

The rock on which Castello Ruffo stands is, according to the ancient Greeks, the lair of the sea monster Scylla – a six-headed beast that snatched sailors from passing ships. On the opposite side of the strait, off the coast of Sicily, lurked Charybdis – a whirlpool that swallowed entire vessels. In Book XII of the Odyssey, Homer describes how Odysseus, following the sorceress Circe's advice, chose the route closer to Scylla – losing six companions but saving the ship from Charybdis.

The phrase "between Scylla and Charybdis" has become a universal metaphor for choosing between two equally bad options. Standing on the castle walls, it is easy to see where the legend came from – powerful currents, swirling waters, and a sheer cliff dropping straight into the sea create a landscape tailor-made for mythology. In the classical tradition, Scylla and Charybdis are placed on opposite sides of the Strait of Messina, and over time the mythical rock came to be identified with present-day Scilla. It is an important part of local identity, but the present form of the castle has nothing to do with antiquity.

What to see – architecture, museum, and panoramas

The castle has an irregular layout adapted to the terrain, standing on a monolithic rock that towers over the fishing quarter of Chianalea and Marina Grande beach. The present plan is dictated by the shape of the promontory, and the visible elements are mainly the perimeter walls, viewing terraces and sections rebuilt in the early modern and Napoleonic eras. At the entrance, look for the bridge leading to the building, the stone portal with a pointed arch, the Ruffo family coat of arms and a plaque commemorating a 16th-century restoration. From there you pass through an entrance hall with a segmental vault (Italian androne a volta ribassata) into the courtyard, where a grand staircase leads to the residential section.

The interior now serves cultural and exhibition functions, and the halls are used for temporary exhibitions and events. The most notable elements connected with local tradition include:

• Luntre – the traditional boat once used to hunt swordfish (Italian pesce spada) in the Strait of Messina,
• Natural history exhibits – models and artefacts related to the swordfish fishing tradition,
• Lighthouse – operating on the castle grounds, highlighting its historic role in controlling this stretch of coastline

Traditional swordfish fishing in Scilla relies on specialised boats – feluccas (Italian feluche) with a tall sighting mast and a long bow walkway (passerella) – plus smaller support vessels. The season falls mainly from late spring to summer, when swordfish migrate through the Strait of Messina. It is one of the most recognisable elements of the identity of Scilla and the entire Costa Viola coast.

The most striking feature, however, is the panorama from the defensive walls. To the north stretches the Costa Viola – a cliff-lined coast whose name is linked to the violet tones of the sea at sunset. To the south lies the Strait of Messina with the Sicilian coast beyond. In exceptionally clear conditions you can also make out part of the Aeolian Islands, including the distinctive cone of the Stromboli volcano. Mount Etna is not visible from the castle – it is hidden by the slope rising above Scilla.

Practical information

Location: The castle stands on a rocky headland between Chianalea and Marina Grande beach, above the entrance to the historic part of Scilla; the address is Piazza Matrice, 89058 Scilla RC, and the entrance leads from the square up a ramp to the ticket office
Hours: According to official information from the Comune di Scilla updated on 29 June 2026, the castle is closed on Mondays and open Tuesday to Sunday from 09:00–13:40 and 15:00–20:00; before visiting, check municipal notices, especially outside the main season or on event days
Getting there: On foot from the centre of Scilla, or by car from Reggio Calabria (approx. 25 km, 30 min drive)
Visit duration: Approx. 45–60 min
Tickets: A standard ticket costs €3; children up to 6 years old and people with certified disabilities with a companion enter free of charge; phone number given in the municipal notice: 0965 616629

From Scilla railway station to the castle is approximately 1 km, and the walk usually takes 15–20 minutes, partly along steep streets. From Marina Grande you can reach the entrance to the headland in about 10 minutes, and from Chianalea even more quickly. In summer, parking near the centre and Marina Grande can be very limited, so it is most convenient to leave your car in the public car parks in the upper part of the town and walk down.

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Last updated: September 25, 2026

About the author

Karina

A passionate traveller and Italy enthusiast, especially in love with Calabria. She explores the most beautiful corners of southern Italy and shares her experiences to inspire others to visit this magical region.