Castello Ruffo

Castello Ruffo di Scilla is a mighty fortress built on a rocky promontory above the Strait of Messina – precisely where Homer's mythical Scylla once lurked. This defensive site has a history stretching back over 2,500 years, though the present form of the castle is the result of much later rebuilds. It is an essential stop on any visit to Scilla – both for the views and the fascinating history; in exceptionally clear weather you can make out the Sicilian coast and sometimes part of the archipelago, especially Stromboli.

History of the fortress – from Anaxilas to the Ruffo dynasty

The first fortification on Scilla's rock was erected in the 5th century BC by order of Anaxilas, tyrant of Rhegion (today's Reggio Calabria), as a defence against pirates raiding the Strait of Messina. In 390 BC the fortress was seized by Dionysius of Syracuse, and during the Roman period the site retained its importance as a key control point for the crossing between Calabria and Sicily.

In 1060 the castle surrendered to Robert Guiscard, the Norman conqueror, who turned it into a military garrison. Over the following centuries the fortress changed hands repeatedly, until in the early modern period it came under the control of the Ruffo family. It is this dynasty that gave the fortress its present name and carried out an important phase of residential and defensive rebuilding.

Two catastrophic earthquakes – in 1783 and 1908 – severely damaged the castle. The site was subsequently rebuilt and transformed, and a lighthouse from the early 20th century operates at its summit, continuing the age-old watchful role of this location.

Crucial to the fortress's present appearance, however, was the early 19th century. In 1808, during Joachim Murat's reign in the Kingdom of Naples, the castle was heavily rebuilt and fortified as part of the defence system of the Strait of Messina against the British and Bourbons in Sicily. In this context it is sometimes also referred to as Forte di Altafiumara or Forte Murat, and the contemporary silhouette of the building is largely the result of these Napoleonic transformations.

Mythology – Scylla and Charybdis from Homer's Odyssey

The rock on which Castello Ruffo stands is, according to the ancient Greeks, the lair of the sea monster Scylla – a six-headed beast that snatched sailors from passing ships. On the opposite side of the strait, off the coast of Sicily, lurked Charybdis – a whirlpool that swallowed entire vessels. In Book XII of the Odyssey, Homer describes how Odysseus, following the sorceress Circe's advice, chose the route closer to Scylla – losing six companions but saving the ship from Charybdis.

The phrase "between Scylla and Charybdis" has become a universal metaphor for choosing between two evils. Standing on the castle walls, it is easy to see where the legend came from – powerful currents, swirling waters, and a sheer cliff dropping straight into the sea create a landscape tailor-made for mythology. In the classical tradition, Scylla and Charybdis are placed on opposite sides of the Strait of Messina, and Scylla herself has over time become strongly identified with present-day Scilla. This is an important element of local cultural and tourist narrative, but it is worth separating the mythological identification of the rock from the history of the castle itself, whose present form is much later.

What to see – architecture, museum, and panoramas

The castle has an irregular layout adapted to the terrain, standing on a monolithic rock that dominates the entrance to Chianalea and Marina Grande. The present plan is dictated by the shape of the promontory, and the visible elements are mainly the perimeter walls, viewing terraces and sections rebuilt in the early modern and Napoleonic eras. What has always mattered most here is the function of controlling the maritime passage through the Strait of Messina, rather than a uniform medieval form.

The interior now serves cultural and exhibition functions, and the halls are used for temporary exhibitions and events. The most notable elements connected with local tradition include:

• Luntre – an original fishing boat used in the traditional swordfish hunt in the Strait of Messina
• Naturalistic exhibits – models and artefacts related to the swordfish fishing tradition
• Lighthouse – operating on the castle grounds, highlighting its historic role in controlling this stretch of coastline

Traditional swordfish fishing in Scilla relies on specialised boats: a feluca or passarella with a tall sighting mast and a long walkway, plus smaller support vessels. The season falls mainly from late spring to summer, when swordfish migrate through the Strait of Messina. It is one of the most recognisable elements of the identity of Scilla and the entire Costa Viola coast.

The real attraction, however, is the panorama from the defensive walls. To the north stretches the Costa Viola – a cliff-lined coast with violet hues. To the south lies the Strait of Messina with Sicily beyond, and on clear days Mount Etna's silhouette rises on the horizon. In exceptionally clear conditions, you can also make out part of the Aeolian Islands on the horizon, especially the distinctive cone of Stromboli.

Practical information

Location: The castle stands on a rocky headland between Chianalea and Marina Grande beach, above the entrance to the historic part of Scilla
Hours: Opening hours and availability may change seasonally and administratively, so it is worth checking current information on site or through official channels of the municipality/venue before visiting
Getting there: On foot from the centre of Scilla or from Reggio Calabria (25 km, about 30 min by car)
Visit duration: Approx. 45–60 min
Tickets: A full ticket usually costs a few euros, but the price list may change seasonally; the site may also be temporarily closed for events, works or administrative reasons

From Scilla railway station to the castle is approximately 1 km, and the walk usually takes 15–20 minutes, partly along steep streets. From Marina Grande you can reach the entrance to the headland in about 10 minutes, and from Chianalea even more quickly. In summer, parking near the centre and Marina Grande can be very limited, so it is most convenient to leave your car in the public car parks in the upper part of the town and walk down.

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